Travelblog LA#32: Puebla & Cholula – Mexico

19th – 23rd September, 2023

 

Puebla was not on my original itinerary when I plotted my route for Mexico. I found myself inspired to come here when I overheard other backpackers talking about it, and I did a bit of reading and realised that not only did it have some historic sites – such as the Great Pyramid of Cholula – but there was also going to be a festival at the end of the week at a place nearby called Atlixco.

So, after I had finished in Mexico City I caught a bus and checked in at the lovely Casa Pepe Boutique Hostel. This is the sort of place that would usually be way beyond my budget but because it is currently low season I snatched a last-minute deal and treated myself. The dorm was air-conditioned with partitioned beds and hot showers. A bit more comfort than I am used to these days.

The next day, Cholula was the first place I explored. It is technically a different city but if you look at a map you will see that the two have merged over the years, and it was just a short colectivo ride away.

Considering this is technically the biggest pyramid in the world, you would expect this place to be more famous. I guess the fact that – from most angles – it more resembles a hill makes it less iconic and photogenic. Its appearance is deceiving, as this is arguably one of the most enigmatic archaeological sites in the New World.

Most of the site remains buried beneath the earth, but archaeologists have dug over seven kilometres of passages which revealed there are seven different layers, all built over each other throughout hundreds of years. Here is a model.

Some of the lower levels have also been excavated and you can walk around them.

Visitors to this place are initially coaxed into an on-site museum which is filled with artefacts and features information about the site. Despite claims by the likes of Graham Hancock – in his Ancient Apocalypse series – most archaeologists agree that construction of this site began in the first century CE and it remained in use until the ninth, which makes it roughly contemporary with Teotihuacan. They have even found similarities in the styles of construction within some of the layers and unearthed artefacts that suggest the two of them had a relationship and traded with each other. I find it interesting that it seems they both fell into decline around the same time too; it seems to add weight to the theories that some kind of environmental factor – such as a volcanic eruption or drought – could have played a part.

Further evidence of the drought theory was found at this altar, which has been dated to the post-classic period of Cholula’s decline. Skulls of children have been found at its base, and such sacrifices are thought to have been a common tradition among Mesoamerican civilisations to beseech the gods for rain.

The museum also features some examples of murals, including a partial reconstruction of one discovered in one of the oldest buildings of the temple. The original is over fifty-six meters long and is especially interesting as it features a scene of people attending what appears to be a festival, giving us some clues as to their traditions and the way they dressed. They appear to be drinking pulque, a beverage made from agave that people in the area still drink to this day.

Whilst the archaeological site is sectioned off, the peak of the pyramid is open to the public and is a popular place for people to walk and enjoy the view of the city. On the day I went it was clear enough for me to see the outline of Popocatapétl Volcano.

It is also home to the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Remedios, which has a legend surrounding it; it is said that the peak of this hill was once home to a shrine to a pre-Colombian deity but it got struck by lightning three times so they eventually built a church there instead. It is an interesting story but I am not sure about its veracity. It does sound like it could quite easily be Christian propaganda.

The city of Cholula itself was also quite charming and after visiting the pyramid I wandered around for a while, exploring the plaza and some of its churches. The Convento de San Gabriel Arcangel and Capilla Real de Naturales are both next to each other and not to be missed.

I also found a nice restaurant called Koatlikue Pachamama. I have mostly been cooking for myself since I came to Mexico (both for budget reasons and because the street food and traditional restaurants have been quite meat-heavy), but this place is vegetarian and specialises in ancestral food so I treated myself. The owner made me a local dish called Choluteca con Salsa de Champignons (cheesy mushrooms and other vegetables sandwiched between two homemade tortillas). It was delicious.

Over the days that followed I did also spend some time exploring Puebla. The historic centre is very scenic and home to some lovely churches. They were everywhere so I didn’t really bother to log them all and just wandered in and out as I passed them.

The cathedral is magnificent, and one of my favourites in Latin America so far.

And the plaza was also a great place to wander. One evening I did so at night and saw all of the light features.

But I will say that one thing I was slightly disappointed by about Puebla was Fuertes Parque. On paper, it seemed that everything about it was the kind of thing that I enjoy, but none of it quite lived up to my expectations. The ‘park’ is mostly concrete. The ‘hill’ isn’t very high so the view is nowhere near as impressive as the one you can see from the Great Pyramid of Cholula.

Loreto Fort was quite expensive to enter and didn’t have much within it to justify that price. There were some displays explaining the famous battle that was fought against the Napoleonic forces here on the 5th of May, but it wasn’t anything that you couldn’t find out by simply doing a bit of research online. It takes about twenty minutes to read all the displays and walk out again.

I briefly visited the Museo Regional de Puebla but shortly after asked for a refund. Once again, this place was a bit expensive, and none of their displays were translated into English.

One museum in Puebla that did impress me, however, was Museo Amparo. This is not state-owned but rather the creation of a rich philanthropist who inaugurated it in the memory of his deceased wife. Much of the second floor is dedicated to modern art, which those of you who read this regularly will know I am not a massive fan of so I will let someone who can judge that more fairly give an opinion.

It does, however, also have an extensive collection of pre-Colombian artefacts and sculptures, which those of you who read regularly will also know is most definitely my thing.

My next blog will cover my day trip to Atlixco for its Huey Atlixcáyotl festival. Don’t miss it as it’s going to be an interesting one!

 

For more photos from my time in Puebla and Cholua, click here.

 

Travelblog LA#31: Mexico City Part 2 (Independence Day Celebrations & Teotihuacan) – Mexico

15th – 18th September, 2023

 

As mentioned in my last blog (to read Part 1 of my time in Mexico City, click here), I arrived in Mexico City a few days before its Independence Day celebrations were due to begin, and that was certainly not something to miss. This blog is going to cover that and my visit to Teotihuacan.

The Mexican Independence Day festivities begin on the evening of the 15th of September with the ‘El Grito’. When thousands of people gather within the main square of the Zocalo district to witness the President make a series of inciting speeches to which the crowd yells back, “Viva Mexico! Viva l independence!”. This is a partial reenactment of the time when Miguel Hidalgo incited the citizens of Dolores to fight for their independence from the Spanish in 1810.

But when the actual day came, it seemed that it might not be possible for me. I didn’t mention this in my last blog but I had been experiencing problems with my back recently. I think the cause was probably a combination of things. I had spent a lot of time sitting in the seat of a car during my road trips with Juan in Costa Rica, and when I arrived in Mexico I ended up having to walk around the airport for a while with all my bags to find an ATM that wouldn’t slap my foreign card with excess charges. Then, after that, my first few days in Mexico were mostly spent in museums – which involved a lot of walking around and standing in spots as I read displays. By the time the 14th of September came I was at the point where I couldn’t even walk more than a few minutes without it flaring.

That, and on the early evening of the 15th, a storm suddenly swept over Mexico City. One that was so dramatic that the other guests at the hostel and I had to abandon the gazebo that served as a communal area on the rooftop and take shelter in the kitchen.

But, as the time drew closer, the weather began to clear and my back was feeling a little better so I decided to take a paracetamol and join the troupe of other guests heading out to the festivities.

I had thought that – with us turning up as late as we did – there wouldn’t be any space left in the plaza but it seems that we were not the only people who had been deterred by the storm. We arrived just as an opening concert was about to begin. A famous band started to play on a stage in front of the cathedral.

I stayed there for about half an hour or so but eventually had to leave. Partly because my back was starting to flare up again but also because there were no public toilets and I had drunk several beers with some of the other backpackers during the storm.

This meant that I missed the part where the President appeared. It would have been nice to witness that first-hand, I guess, but I was happy I got to see the prelude and soak up the atmosphere for a while.

There was one good thing about returning at the time I did, however…

… and that is that I got to watch the fireworks display from the roof of my hostel (whilst drinking another beer).

The following day there was a military parade, and I went to see it with two of the other people staying at the hostel.

Contrary to the previous night, we found it impossible to get into the plaza on this occasion – by the time we tried to make our way there it was already packed – so we made our way to one of the nearby avenues that the parade was due to pass through.

And, as usual with such events in Latin America, there was a lot of waiting for it to start. I think we were there for about an hour before we started to faintly hear music and other sounds echoing from the plaza. During that time we did occasionally get to watch fighter jets passing above, but besides that, we just waited.

When the parade came it didn’t disappoint. I won’t bore you by listing all the things that we saw but I will say that it was very long. Tanks, paratroopers, engineers, infantry, cavalry, medics, and many others. Some of them even on the backs of large trucks.

One of the highlights for me was a group of falconers marching by with eagles. A friend who was observing from a different place said that she witnessed them all take off. Some of Mexico’s allies were also represented, including many Latin American and Caribbean countries along with some others. I will say, however, that it was a bit disorientating for me to hear people cheering when soldiers from Russia marched by. I can only guess that they hear a very different spin on their news in this part of the world.

I will also admit that I didn’t watch the entire thing, as it was very, very long, and – especially towards the end – a bit repetitive. I made my way back through the plaza, which by then had emptied a little and was covered in confetti.

And now I will write about what I suspect most of you are here for; my visit to Teotihuacan.

I purposefully waited a couple of days after the Independence Day celebrations. Not only to give my back a bit of a rest but also because I wanted to wait until the weekend was over so I could avoid the crowds.

I was fairly successful with this. When I arrived I managed to take a few photos of it whilst it was still fairly empty, but I think that might have had more to do with the fact that I turned up early. Within a couple of hours, some tour buses arrived and the place was much busier.

The first feature you see when you enter the site is the Pyramid of the Sun, which is much bigger than pictures like this would make you think.

It is also possibly misnamed; many contemporary historians have analysed the archaeological finds and concluded that this is more likely to have been dedicated to Tlaloc, the rain god. I do not have the authority to weigh in heavily on this but – as an amateur enthusiast – the arguments for it seem fairly convincing to me.

After walking along the Avenue of the Dead, one reaches the second most prominent pyramid that looms over the site; the Pyramid of the Moon. Evidence left in murals seems to suggest that this was dedicated to a deity we do not have a name for so is often referred to as The Great Goddess of Teotihuacan.

In truth, we do not truly know what any of the deities of Teotihuacan were called. Their civilisation fell into decline mysteriously during the eighth century and their script has never been deciphered. The Aztecs rediscovered this site hundreds of years later and appropriated many of their gods into their pantheon whilst giving them new names.

Close to the Pyramid of the Moon are a series of buildings filled with little temples, shrines and courtyards. They are not as well-known but fascinating because many of the walls are covered in murals and carvings.

Speaking of carvings; a tip that I would like to give to those who might be visiting is to not miss the Museo de los Murales. This is also close to the Pyramid of the Moon and is included with your entry fee when you come to Teotihuacan, but many people miss it. It is home to many of the better-preserved murals that they have recovered from the site, many of them with information.

On the southern side of the Avenue of the Dead are Plaza Oeste and some of the residential areas. The Plaza has an interesting example of the different stages of Teotihuacan’s different stages of building as they have excavated one of the floors to see more steps beneath.

The residential areas are perhaps not as exciting to look at if you are a visitor, but – as usual – this area has been a treasure trove to archaeologists in finding clues as to how the people of Teotihuacan lived.

Teotihuacan is very intriguing in that regard. I have seen a few instances where people have nicknamed the Teotihuacan ‘The Rome of Pre-Colombian America’, but I am not sure if that is the most fitting comparison to be made. They were certainly very multicultural, as the evidence from the living quarters shows that they had many different peoples dwelling in this city – including the Maya – and some of them even had their own districts.

Another thing the archaeological evidence indicates is that they were a fairly egalitarian society whose citizens enjoyed a fairly high standard of living for the time. They are still not sure how this place was governed as they haven’t found any indication of a singular ruling class. This, and the other mysteries that surround them concerning their religion and mysterious decline, makes me think more about the Harappans (if a comparison were to be made).

The Temple of the Feathered Serpent is usually the final stop for those who visit Teotihuacan. It is situated in a very iconic plaza surrounded by little platforms and pyramids, and it is certainly structurally impressive.

But I didn’t get quite the same energy as I did from the other two main pyramids here, and I am not quite sure why. I think this one has been excavated a lot, and I suspect that the serpent heads on display are recreations, as they look far too well-preserved to be originals.

One last thing I will say about Teotihuacan is that there are a few other little sites included in your ticket scattered around the nearby neighbourhood. Some of them were closed on the day I came but I did manage to get inside the Palacio de Tetitla which is a great example of the high standard of living the population of this city enjoyed and is covered in interesting murals.

 

For more photos of Teotihuacan, click here. Also, I have many videos from the Independence Day celebrations that can be found in my Mexico City album.

 

Travelblog LA#30: Mexico City Part 1 (Templo Mayor & Museums) – Mexico

 11th – 15th September, 2023

 

Mexico. The final lap of this trip that I began over six months ago. Out of all the countries in Latin America, this is a big one, so I am looking forward to it. I have about seven weeks to explore, and my first stop is its capital city.

I arrived in the early evening, and – after catching an Uber and climbing five flights of stairs – was pleased to see that my hostel had a nice view of the city, overlooking the Regina Coeli Parish. I didn’t do much that first evening as I was tired and needed to get my bearings. I drew out some money and grabbed some food, but mostly just stayed in my hostel. It was the following morning that I started exploring, and did so by walking through the nearby historic centre (also known as Zocalo).

By a fortunate coincidence, I had come to Mexico City on the week of its Independence Day celebrations, and I witnessed preparations being made. Much of the main plaza was cordoned off, stages were being built, and decorations were draped across the facades of buildings. There was even a little village of tents – which I was not quite sure was made of people trying to claim their spaces early, or protestors, but when I returned a couple of days later, they had all vanished.

After soaking up the plaza, I went for a quick walk around the Metropolitan Cathedral whilst on my way to the main attraction that day; Templo Mayor.

This site – also known as Huēyi Teōcalli – is one of the most historically significant places in all of Mexico, but it isn’t as known as the likes of Teotihuacan or Chichen Itza. Mexico City is built upon the foundations of Tenochtitlan, the capital of the Aztec Empire, which was made out of a network of causeways forming a grid upon a lake. The design was sacred, and many of Huēyi Teōcalli’s features represented duality between the earth and sky. It was situated at the nexus of this amphibious city, where the main causeways met, and thus – to the Aztecs and other inhabitants – it was the centre of the cosmos.

It is, admittedly, not the most photogenic out of all the ruins that I have seen. Many of the edifices were dismantled by the colonists to build the Zocalo we know today, and then the foundations were buried beneath the earth for hundreds of years until they were rediscovered in 1978.

What this place may lack in terms of intact structures, it has more than made up for in archaeology. During excavations, it was discovered that – much like the Mayans – these peoples had a habit of adding new layers to their religious buildings over the generations and this happened seven times. On each occasion, statues, stuccos, offerings, and other artefacts were buried with the structures, preserving them. Sometimes they were even placed in special boxes made of stone.

The on-site museum is where most of the visitors end up spending most of their time once they have finished wandering through the remains of the foundations, and it is where the real treasures of this place are.

Some of the highlights – for me – included:

These stone knives. They are made from flint (with other precious stones as decorations to symbolise teeth and eyes). These are believed to have been used mostly for ritual purposes, including human sacrifice.

Several ceramic pots depicting Tlaloc, the god of rain.

This Olmec mask was probably what made the biggest impression on me. There are many artefacts here that are possibly more complex, but I like the refined simplicity of it. Also, this is one of the oldest finds, as the Olmecs were the earliest known civilisation in Mesoamerica – predating the Tenochtitlan by hundreds of years. Findings like this hint that the Aztecs – and other latter civilisations – were aware of the Olmecs, and perhaps even venerated them.

And this huge and iconic monolith of Tlalcihuatl, an earth goddess, which was found at the foot of the site.

On my second day in Mexico City, I had originally planned to go to the world-renowned National Museum of Anthropology, which is based in the Chapultepec district (on an old hill that was sacred to the Aztec people but is now an urban park). When I arrived, however, I found the whole park and all of its museums and attractions closed. I saw men in uniform through the bars, so I am guessing it might have been something to do with the parade later this week.

So, upon hearing this news, I found myself looking at the Paseo de la Reforma – a famous avenue that runs through some of Mexico City’s most iconic civic features – and decided to walk down it.

Many people will recognise the Angel of Independence, but there were several other monuments across its breadth, including one for Cuauhtemoc, the last Aztec emperor.

Conveniently, this walk also brought me close to Alameda Central, which is not only the oldest public park in the city but also close to the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

This building is not just a museum but the architecture is a work of art in itself.

Because of a press event going on – which I am guessing, like most things I came across this week, was connected to the independence celebrations– many of the exhibitions were closed but I still got to go to the top floor which is what most people come here for because it is home to a collection of famous murals by artists such as Diego Rivera.

At one point I got to witness part of the press event. A crowd of people appeared and a public figure was interviewed in front of this iconic painting. There was also a swam of protestors at the edges. They let her finish her speech before chanting about their grievances.

I also went to the National Museum of Art, which was within yet another impressive building.

The exhibitions here are more diverse and vary from colonial to modern, sculpture, and many others.

And my final visit that day was to the Museum of World Cultures. As named, it features lots of exhibitions concerning cultures from around the world. It is perhaps a little generalist, but it is free to enter so worth a wander if you have some spare time. Many of its display items are recreations rather than originals – or at least I assume so, as I suspect this place would be a much bigger deal if this was the original Code of Hammurabi.

On my third day, I finally made it to the National Museum of Anthropology, the crowning jewel of Mexico’s museums and the one I was most looking forward to.

I will try to condense the entire day that I spent here as succinctly as I can handle when in my geek mode.

This place is very big, and it is almost impossible to go through all of its exhibitions in a single day so many people are tactical about which parts they go to.

The first section is about the evolution of the human species. If you are someone who has studied this – even at an amateur level – you probably won’t find out anything new here (in fact you may find some of the information a bit outdated). If you haven’t studied this subject but are interested I would highly recommend this as an introduction.

If you go upstairs from the exhibition about human evolution, there are some exhibitions concerning the contemporary indigenous cultures within Mexico. This is quite fascinating but if you are here for more ancient history and artefacts, you might find your time better focussed elsewhere.

It was when I reached the exhibition concerning Teotihuacan that I found myself becoming enthralled. Not only does this place feature many amazing artefacts excavated from the site.

But it is also home to many original towering monoliths.

As well as some historical reconstructions of what they believe parts of this acropolis to have looked like, such as this façade of the Temple of the Feathered Serpent.

You can even walk inside it to see some of the original remains of human sacrifices that were found within.

This exhibition also features reconstructions of what they believe some of the inner courtyards to have looked like, with murals painted on the walls.

In many ways, this museum works as a great introduction to many of the historic sites in Mexico, and I am glad that I came here before visiting Teotihuacan itself, as I believe I will now be able to better contextualise it and picture what it made have looked like in my mind’s eye when I go.

And it is not just Teotihuacan, either. Adjacent to this exhibition is another concerning some of the smaller civilisations which rose in prominence in the power vacuum that appeared once Teotihuacan fell, such as Xochicalco.

I also spent quite some time exploring the exhibition concerning the Oaxaca civilisation, as I will be venturing to that region soon and exploring some of its sites.

The Maia are, of course, well-represented with an entire exhibition dedicated to them.

As well as some of the lesser-known civilisations that existed in the Gulf Coast and the Baja California Peninsula.

But, out of all of them, a particular highlight for me was – once again – their section on the Olmecs. This place is home to a couple of the enigmatic heads this older and mysterious civilisation left behind.

As well as many other artefacts, which are – once again – somewhat more simplistic than those of the latter civilisations, but have a breathtaking finesse. I am finding myself becoming increasingly fascinated by them.

No matter where your particular interests lay, some other highlights that are not to be missed at this museum include:

The Mexica Exhibit located in a large room at the far end of the courtyard. It is here that many of the larger sculptures found in the area around Mexico City are located.

Including the famous Aztec Sunstone.

A reproduction of the Tomb of Pakal the Great, as it was found within the Temple of Inscriptions in Palenque (another place I will be visiting during my time in Mexico).

And this amazing serpentine mask, decorated with jade and other precious stones. These were often found placed upon the faces of the dead in Mesoamerica. This one is believed to have been a warrior.

This is the end of this entry concerning my time in Mexico City, but stay tuned for part two which will cover the Independence Day celebrations and my visit to Teotihuacan.

 

For more photos of amazing artefacts, art, and other sites around Mexico City, click here.