Travelblog SA#7: Volunteering at Merazonia – Ecuador

28th June – 6th August 2018

Merazonia is a non-profit wildlife rehabilitation centre nestled where the Andes meets the Amazon in Ecuador, and it has been operating for almost a decade. I had the privilege of staying there as a volunteer for a little over five weeks – which is actually not that long in the scheme of things as the minimum stay they ask for is two weeks but almost everyone who comes falls in love with the place and many end up staying for months, even years.

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On my first day, I was introduced to everyone, given a tour, and designated a bed in their dormitory. They told me I could spend the afternoon in leisure, having only just arrived, but I was feeling motivated so offered to help them with enrichment activities. A few minutes later, I found myself traipsing through the jungle, towards a release site they were building, and I helped them construct feeders there. Most of Merazonia’s enclosures are just a short walk away from the main headquarters but this was a new one, purposefully built a little further away to help encourage a successful release for primates.

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I also met Whistler that night, who would end up being one of my favourites of all the creatures there. Merazonia is primarily a rehabilitation centre and, unlike some places which make such claims, they have a strict policy of minimum human contact for most of their animals because taming them can affect their chances of survival when set free. Their highest priority, however, is wellbeing, and in some cases, where release is not possible, they give them the best life they can.

Whistler is one of those creatures for whom release is not possible. He is a kinkajou; a nocturnal, tree-dwelling mammal that some people mistakenly believe can they can tame and keep as novel pets but end up having a nasty surprise later along the line when the animals reach maturity because detained kinkajous become aggressive out of infancy. Merazonia have been handed many such kinkajous in the past, and most have been successfully released back into the wild, but Whistler, however, is somewhat an oddity. He remains human-orientated, and they suspect he may have brain damage. He also has physical health problems, and one of the daily duties of Merazonia’s volunteers is to visit him at night and give him a spoonful of jam laced with medicine which helps keep him alive. As soon as you enter his cage, he leaps upon you, wraps his tail around your neck, nestles into your arms, and will simply not let you go until he has had a few minutes of attention. They call him Whistler because he once had his nose scratched off by another kinkajou and he makes a strange sound when he breathes. Everyone adores him.

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Of course, not all of the work at Merazonia is glamorous. Most of the time you are cleaning cages and it is not something I would recommend to someone with a strong adversity for monkey guano. You have to be quiet while performing these chores and avoid all unnecessary interaction with the animals because it is bad for them to get too used to humans.

That said, volunteering at Merazonia is one of the most rewarding things I have ever done and I learned a lot about wildlife while there. One of my favourite days was when I helped extend the artificial branch system they have for Houdini and Margarita – a pair of macaws who cannot fly and thus roam around Merazonia by climbing along a series of beams – and watching them use it for the first time, knowing that I helped make a pair of creatures worlds’ a little bigger.

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During my stay, a lot of attention was focussed upon their group of woolly monkeys. Each one had been brought to the centre individually over the years, and most often they were young, malnourished and traumatised, having just witnessed their mother being hunted for bushmeat and sold as pets to people who didn’t have a clue how to care for them. Each one has had to be nurtured back to health, raised, and introduced to the rest of the group once old enough. It has taken Merazonia years but they finally have a strong enough group to consider preparing for release and I admire the work of its staff and long-term volunteers who have such patience and dedicated their lives to such a cause. I will not be there for the actual release but feel honoured to have been part of the build-up and I hope it goes well.

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Merazona also has a group of capuchins which, like the woolly monkeys, need to be fed and have their enclosures cleaned twice a day. They are a little more difficult to manage than woollies because they are highly intelligent and have a complex social structure but, despite how troublesome they can be, they are often amusing to watch and they do put a smile on your face. They have taken in some howler monkeys over the years too, but not so many because unfortunately, not many howlers sold as pets survive long enough to make it to a refuge as they are very specialised feeders and many die of malnutrition. Chiliana is one who was lucky enough to be saved in time, and she has to be taken out into the jungle every day to forage for very particular leaves, learn to climb, and build up her muscles.

There are lots of macaws and other birds, some tamarins, a sloth called Stevie (who is shortly due for release), a puma and, last but not least, Tom the turkey (who has technically been released and is self-sufficient, but spends many of his days roaming around the grounds causing mischief).

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Another highlight of my time there was being given the privilege of becoming a ‘Baby Woolly Daddy’ and helping to look after two of Merazonia’s newest members, Fonzi and Chachi, who were adorable and hard to say goodbye to.

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Just a little note, so that future volunteers don’t get the wrong idea: Merazonia only lets a limited number of its volunteers handle baby monkeys as, even though it is a necessity for them to have the care and attention their original parents from the wild can no longer give, it is not good for them to be handled by too many people. When Fonzi and Chachi are old enough they will start the rehabilitation process and will likely be the first members of a new group of woollies Merazonia will prepare for release. Who knows? Maybe I will visit Merazonia again in a few years and one of them will be the new alpha male. It would be nice to see them again, but by then the policy of minimum human contact will be in place and I will not be allowed to acknowledge them in the same manner. They will also have become wilder. I will certainly be following Merazonia closely online to hear about their progress.

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I have uploaded a few more videos, highlighting some of my favourite moments in Merazonia. You can find them by clicking on the following links:

Visiting the nearby waterfall (I didn’t jump into it myself as I am way too scared of heights!), the woolly monkeys, Chilliana playing in the trees, Fonzi and Chachi montage, and releasing a sloth.

 

For more photos and videos from Merazonia, click here.

If you are interested in volunteering at Merazonia (or even just helping them out in some other way, such as adopting one of their animals) here is their website. This video on Youtube is also a good introduction to what they are about.

 

Travelblog SA#6: Galapagos Part 3 (San Cristobal Island & Santa Cruz Island) – Ecuador

23rd-26th June 2018

Some of my final days in the Galapagos were spent on the island of San Cristobal. Of all the inhabited islands, it had the best-maintained town and it was close to Tijeritas Hill; a spot famous in the archipelago for being a nesting zone for frigates.

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Whilst walking around the area I saw something I was not expecting at all on the Galapagos Islands: a wild furry animal about the size of a small fox. I still do not know what it was for it was a little too big to be a cat and had an angular head. Unlike the endemic species of the Galapagos this creature was shy and slinked away, so I didn’t manage to get a photo of it.

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The bay just below Tijerietas Hill had a lot of turtles, stonefish, huge schools of yellow-tailed grunts, rays, and also a colony of playful sea lions which got into the water and swam with me. On the Galapagos Islands there are some things which you get desensitised to – such as seeing iguanas and pelicans – because there are so many of them everywhere, but swimming with sea lions was one of the things I never grew bored of.

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In the afternoon I set off for La Loberia, a beach a few kilometres away from town which is famous for its abundance of sea lions. By chance I found myself wandering into a street festival. I did not know the occasion or what they were celebrating but I watched for a while and soaked up the atmosphere while they danced, drank, sang, and played their instruments.

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By the time I reached La Loberia, it was almost sunset and the sea lions were settling down for the evening upon the shore. It was a rather eerie moment, and I took some wonderful photos.

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I left San Cristobal the following day but picked a boat leaving in the afternoon so I could spend some more time snorkelling with the sea lions at Tijerietas. I was feeling very content by the time I returned to Santa Cruz (the island my journey in the Galapagos both began and would end). I had achieved almost everything I intended. I’d seen so many things, including penguins, blue-footed boobies, frigates, tortoises, turtles, and so much of Galapagos’ strange, almost alien landscape. There was only one thing left on my list, and that was to see a hammerhead shark.

I heard stories of them being sighted in a set of mini islets off of Santa Cruz called Gordon’s Rock, but the sightings were not guaranteed. I only had one day left so I signed up for a day of diving, hoping that I would be lucky. I only had enough money in my tight budget for one shot anyway.

The first dive was a little ropey. The currents were being unpredictable so our instructor had to change our course and some of the other divers ran out of air early and had to go back up. It was my first time going underwater for over three years, and Gordon’s Rock is a drift dive with very strong currents so I was, quite literally, jumping into the deep end. I was a little disoriented at times and came back up with a headache. We did manage to see a hammerhead though, as well as lots of Galapagos sharks, turtles, and a huge school of barracudas.

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The second dive went much more smoothly. The instructor knew what was going on with the currents by then and figured out how to work around them. We saw so many hammerheads that I stopped counting and the landscape of pinnacles covered in coral was beautiful. I was lucky enough to be buddied up with a dude with a GoPro, so here is a video.

 

If you would like to see more photos and videos from the Galapagos, click here.

Also, click on the following links if you would like read Part 1 or Part 2 of my time in the Galapagos.

Travelblog SA#5: Galapagos Part 2 (Isabela Island) – Ecuador

20th-22nd June 2018

As we got onto the boat we were handed two things; a life jacket and sickbag. It was an indication of what was to come, for it was a rather rocky journey. The sea was rough and the people at the back of the boat kept getting splashed, but mostly they just laughed about it.

At one point a man went to use the toilet, and they had to slow the vessel down. Perhaps it was just sheer luck, but it was at that exact moment we ran into a school of dolphins and everyone got up to watch as clusters of them broke from the surface and did flips, almost as if it was their way of saying ‘hello’.

It was ironic because I have, in the past, gone out on boat expeditions with the specific intension of seeing dolphins and been unsuccessful, and here it suddenly happened by accident.

As the boat pulled into Isabela Island, we were greeted by a group of sea lions who swam around us, coming up for air a mere few feet away. I got off, found a place to stay, and then wandered around the town for a bit. I was offered a last minute deal for a tour to a place called ‘Los Túneles’ so, only a few minutes later, I was back on another boat.

On this journey we encountered even more creatures. This time; manta rays. And the boatmen slowed the vessel down each time we passed one so we could watch their dark fins creeping over the surface of the water. On a couple of occasions they swam face up and I could see the outline of their white bellies.

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Los Tunels is a series of strange rock formations by the coast of the island and, as one of the many protected zones of the Galapagos, it can only be reached by sea. As well as being an interesting landscape in itself, it is also home to an abundance of wildlife. The first stand-out species we spotted were a group of Galapagos penguins.

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And we were also taken on a walk, where we came across some blue-footed boobies. We got to watch the male make his mating display to the female. A video of which can be seen here.

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Later on, we also came across a blue-footed booby with a recently hatched chick.

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And then we were taken snorkelling, where we spotted sea horses, turtles, sharks, rays, and lots of tropical fish.

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Getting back onto the boat later that afternoon, I realised this was probably going to be one of the highlights of my time on the Galapagos.

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The following day, I went to explore more of the island by myself, and I saw lots of species of birds. The first were a group of flamingos in the lagoons just outside of the village.

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And I believe this is a young egret.

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I do not know what this bird is, so if anyone can tell me please let me know.

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A Lava heron.

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Towards the end of the trail I reached the Wall of Tears, a historic monument to abuse of power. It was constructed in 1946 by prisoners who were forced to build it under cruel conditions for no reason but the amusement of the men in charge, as it never served any function. The Ecuadorian Government felt it wrong to wipe out this shameful moment of their history, so they have kept it to serve as a reminder.

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On my final morning on Isabela Island, I went (for the second time) to Concha de Perla, a small bay near the port which is known for its snorkelling. Lots of tropical fish and the odd turtle can be found there, but on this second visit something special happened. A family of sea lions were there, and the father and child both got into the water and swam with me for a while. They were very playful and kept swimming right up close to my face and then twisting away to dive down to the ocean floor. I copied their movements as best as I could (by dunking downwards and spinning around in circles as I swam back up to the surface), and I also followed the young one for a while as he darted between schools of fish and caught the odd one in his mouth. I eventually lost them though because I spotted a huge sting ray sleeping in the shallows.

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As the boat sailed away from Isabela, later that afternoon, sea lions were swimming around us, blue-footed boobies were circling the air above, and pelicans were diving into the water to catch fish. It was almost like music, and it was quite the send off.

 

For more photos from the Galapagos, click here.

To read Part 1 of my time in the Galapagos, click here.