3rd – 9th September, 2023
Note; this blog is a continuation of my previous entry where I gave an account of my stay in the Puriscal region of Costa Rica. Throughout the time covered in this blog I am still (mostly) based in Puriscal, but I went on some day trips with my friend Juan.
Irazú Volcano
This is the highest volcano in the whole of Costa Rica, and it is said that on a clear day you can see both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans from its summit. We were perhaps a little unlucky in that regard – as the weather that day didn’t allow for any panoramas – but I do not consider us unfortunate. It was a nice, refreshing, atmospheric walk, and watching the mist draft across the various craters was a novelty.
This volcano has erupted over twenty times since its first recording in 1723, the most famous being when it showered Costa Rica’s capital in ash during John F. Kennedy’s visit in 1963. It has been almost thirty years since the last occasion but I suspect this is one to watch out for as most of its incidents have been explosive.
If you go to this place you are almost certainly going to pass by Cartago, which is Costa Rica’s former capital (and there are some gorgeous views along the way). As far as colonial cities go it isn’t very well preserved so it doesn’t hold up to the likes of Antigua or Granada, but we did make a stop along the way to have a little walk around the main plaza and its cathedral; both of which were quite charming.
Manuel Antonio National Park
Basing myself in Puriscal has meant that most of my time in Costa Rica has been a bit off the beaten track but as soon as Juan’s car approached this park I knew I was back in on the tourist trail when we passed lots of gringos, international restaurants, and souvenir shops. This is not a critique. Some places are popular for a reason, and this is one of them. It was just a very noticeable transition.
In many ways, this place reminded me of Tayrona National Park in Colombia, as it is essentially a sprawl of gorgeous tropical beaches surrounded by jungle, all connected by paths and boarded walkways. During our walks along the trails we saw lots of wildlife, including some white-faced cappuchins.
Howler monkeys.
Sloths.
Iguanas.
Deer.
And this green snake, as well as a few other things.
The beaches were all very picturesque.
And there were also some nice sights to be seen along the walkways through the jungle.
A nice little addition to the day was that – after exploring the park – we got back into the car, and Juan drove to a secret beach nearby. I was not too far away but almost empty, and it being a bit off the beaten track meant that he could drive onto the beach and park up by the edge of the trees. We got a pair of camping chairs out, had a swim, and drank a few beers while enjoying the view.
It turned out that this place was also quite good for wildlife too. Not only did we see another sloth, but one of the locals alerted us to another creature lurking not too far away. I am not quite sure what it is, but happy for people to tell me if they do.
Venado Island
This was something that Juan organised. I had mentioned to him that I was interested in going to the Nicoya peninsular, and he remembered that a friend had recently recommended a place to stay on one of the more remote islands in this area: Cabinas La Loma on Venado Island.
So, Juan drove to Puntarenas, from which we took a ferry, and then it was just a short drive to a little dock where our host – Esteban – picked us up.
Esteban was a great host. Happy to tell us all about the area and its attractions. He also stopped off by some of the mangrove forests on the way to look at the birds resting in the trees.
Among them were frigates: a species I have not seen since I visited the Galapagos five years ago.
When we reached the shore of his village, it was a short walk up a little hill to reach his hostel. We had our own little cabin with a view of the coast, and the communal area featured an outdoor dining table, hammocks, and a pool.
It is a family-run business so it was his wife who cooked us our meals – all of which were local seafood and delicious – and after eating lunch we went for a walk around the island.
It took us a couple of hours, in all, and we passed by little villages lined with fishing boats, mangrove forests, and beaches. By the time we got back, we were happy to just relax by the pool and enjoy the sunset.
The following morning Esteban took us on a little tour on his boat. The first hour or so was exploring some of the mangrove forests to see what birds we could find, which included pelicans, cormorants and roseate spoonbills.
And then afterwards we went to another remote island called Caballo, where we had a little swim at the shore and a walk around its village.
After that, we went back to the cabin, packed up our things and made our way back to the mainland. I had just two more nights more nights left in Costa Rica and I was happy to spend them at Juan’s house and enjoy the view of the mountains of Puriscal. I mentioned in my last blog that my time in Costa Rica has felt more like a holiday than backpacking, but it has been a welcome respite to prepare me for the next stage of my journey. I will look back on my time here fondly, and I am also grateful to Juan for his hospitality.
My next destination is Mexico; the final country on this trip. I have two months to explore it, and I will be back to staying in hostels and living like a thrifty traveller.
Click on these hyperlinks to see more photos from Irazú, Manuel Antonio Park, and Venado Island.
Tej Turner 